Author: Rubinstein, Nela
Nela's food is earthy, sensuous, and direct; she makes no distinction between party food and family food, elegant and plain. The dishes she likes best are drawn largely from old family notebooks (she grew up on a huge farm-estate in Lithuania): wonderful pickley soups, borscht with deliciously filled pierogis and other stuffed surprises, succulent cutlets made of ground meats, baked and jellied carp,salt herring with blinis, hunter's stew of pork and sausages and sauerkraut, raisin-studded Easter bread, mazurkas, honey and spice cakes, steamed coffee pudding, walnut and almond tortes dishes that are richly satisfying but become miraculously lightened in Nela's deft hands. Then there are the recipes Nela has improvised, inspired by what she would sample in posh restaurants on tour with the Maestro her sense of taste, like perfect pitch, enabling her to decipher ingredients and recreate the dish even more harmoniously at home (a navarin of lamb unlike any other, a lemon chicken en chaud-froid, squabs in grapes and raisins, pheasant smothered in cabbage, and so on). Nela's Cookbook is packed with all the savvy that an inventive cook accumulates over the years; it is full of invaluable tips: sticking a lemon peel or a whole walnut in the pot to eliminate cabbagy odors... how to make a soufflé wait... a home remedy for a cough (children love it)... how to remove garlic smells from your hands... how to synchronize a party for sixty (even in a cramped hotel kitchen).
She tells wonderful stories, remembering funny (or touching) occasions among them, a morning of crayfish hunting on the Los Angeles River (Arthur in Panama hat, carnation boutonniere, and pearl stickpin) or the time she made bigos for a party for her actor son, John Rubinstein, and all the cast and crew of Children of a Lesser God. Her superb recipes, her ease in the kitchen, the gift for good cooking even with scant equipment and provender (which served her so well in the gypsy years of concert tours), her spontaneous inventions and variations on classic dishes, and, above all, her real pleasure in food make Nela's Cookbook a rare delight for the uncertain beginner as well as the seasoned cook.
In praise of Nela's Cookbook
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